Camai Dance Festival

On March 31, 2007 my friend and I volunteered at the Cama-i (pronounced Cha-my) Dance Festival held in Bethel. Dancing is very important in the Alaska Native culture, and their dances are how they tell stories. Dancing groups came from all over the delta to perform. We even had some groups from outside Alaska. The tops you see everyone wear are called quaspaks. Those are worn by most Yup'ik women and children. I even own one, and must admit, they are quite comfortable.

Another event that occurs at the dance festival is the huge craft fair. These Native crafts are quite amazing. When the hunters bring back their catch, everything is used. Most of the crafts are made from animal fur which are turned into hats, mittens, or boots. Not only are these items beautiful, they are very warm. The temperatures in this part of Alaska can fall to 50 below, and will stay frigid for months. Since Natives rely on animals for food, their hides offer protection from the bitter cold. Coastal villages use walrus tusks to make beautiful ivory bracelets and earrings. Another popular craft here are beads. Women make bracelets, earrings, barrettes, necklaces and so on. I enjoy talking to the elders about their crafts and what they used to make them.

Canyonlands Half Marathon

On March 14, 2007 I flew to Salt Lake City Utah. Bethel was extremely cold (temps down to 30 below), and when I landed in Anchorage I was shocked at how cold it was there. I believe the temperature was 20 below zero, which is unusual that time of the year. Let's just say, I was more than excited to head down to some warmer temperatures.

Eric and I had been training for this half marathon since November, but Eric was not able to make the trip. About 3 weeks before our trip, Eric was told he needed to be in Anchorage for some flight training. Flight training is mandatory for pilots, and must be done yearly. So I was pretty bummed that Eric was not able to come, but I needed to do this run!

Training to run long distances in Bethel is pretty difficult since the wind blows constantly here. In the summer the dust is so thick that you just eat dust, and in the winter you never know when you may get caught in a blizzard. The other problem is the temperatures. From November through March temperatures stay below zero, and it is very tough to breathe. Even my eyelashes freeze. It is a very strange feeling. I do see 1 or 2 people running in the winter on occasion, but I have no desire to undergo that kind of torture. A very unique problem here are the dogs. In Bethel there are lots of stray dogs, and many of them have rabies. Yes, we have rabies here because dogs get bit by the fox. Anyway, last year I was running outside and a dog bit me on the leg. It was pretty scary, and I had to get the rabies vaccine because it was a stray. That was no fun. I have not run outside since then......

So, I train on a treadmill. Thankfully, the hospital has a small "wellness center" for it's employees. It costs 22 dollars a month for 2 treadmills, a bike, 2 elliptical machines, and a weight machine. It is expensive, but it's all Bethel has to offer which is pretty sad. I would spend hours running on the treadmill pretending I was running somewhere else. I would try to visualize my old running routes in Utah. Running is also a crucial way for me to stay sane in the winters. With daylight only lasting 6 hours or so, and extreme temperatures, it was the only way I could keep going. Just as a side note, did you know that Western Alaska has the highest suicide rate in the nation? It is very sad.

Well, as I said, I was so excited to get to Utah for the race. I use to run long distance races regularly before moving to Bethel, so this was a huge deal for me. Eric's mom Reva drove with me to Moab and kept me company. When I arrived in Moab on Friday, the town was buzzing with excitement. I had not been around that many people in a long time, so I finally felt alive! The temperature was in the 70ies, which felt wonderful! I was so happy to be wearing short sleeves and flip flops! Reva and I made our way to the runners expo to pick up my bib number, shirt and so on. I was so happy to be among hundreds of runners - you could just feel the adrenaline. After the expo, Reva and I headed to the pasta dinner held at the Moab Arts and Rec Center. Everything was homemade, and was delicious! They even had fresh organic greens from their own gardens. I almost cried, because I don't get to see fresh produce like that anymore..... I was proud to be "representing" Alaska, and told everyone where I was from. People were shocked to hear I just left 30 below zero temperatures. After dinner, we walked around town some, then headed to the grocery store so I could grab some fruit for the morning. I decided to go to bed early, so I was ready in the morning!

I hardly slept a wink, since I was so excited and nervous about race day. At around 6 am, I got out of bed, showered, ate a small breakfast (an orange), and took my Advil. By 7 am I was ready to head over to the buses. Reva said I looked like a runner, which made me feel good. It had been a long time since I've laced up my shoes for a race. It was a bit chilly in the morning - around 40, so I threw on an extra layer. Reva dropped me off at the bus drop and wished me luck. I started to tear up as I saw thousands of runners boarding the buses. This was a very overwhelming experience for me. I wished Eric was with me to share this excitement, but I was so thrilled to be there doing what I love to do most... Running...

The school buses took the runners up the canyon and dropped us off at the starting line. The most important thing I have learned over the years doing races is that when you get to the starting line... GET IN LINE FOR THE PORT-A-POTTIES! After you go, go again, and again. It doesn't matter how many times you use the port-a-potties, you will pee. Believe me..... I don't know if its nerves, or all the water and Gatorade you drink before a race. You gotta go! I laughed as people were shaking in the "cold". I will admit, in the canyon temps were a bit chilly, but I was not cold at all. (The benefit of living in frozen Alaska). I had shed my layers and was in a tank top and shorts and felt fine - seriously!

The race was about to start, so all the runners had to make their way up a 1/4 mile to the actual starting line. The sea of runners making their way up the hill was amazing. This many people to run is very cool. As I past the starting line, I made my way to the correct pace mark. Runners line up in accordance to their running pace. You don't want the slow runners in front of fast runners, so there are signs that help everyone line up properly. I went to the 10:20 minute group, which is slower than my normal pace, but since Moab is 4,000 feet elevation, temps are to hit 80, and I have been at sea level, and freezing - I better not push it. As I waited, I saw a woman with an Alaska shirt on! She noticed my Alaska shirt as well. We chatted, and she was from Anchorage and came to run the race. She turned 40 2 years ago and decided to start running races. Anyway, the race was about to start, so everyone got ready. The gun went off, and down the canyon we went! As my new Alaskan friend and I crossed the starting line, she yelled "GO TEAM ALASKA!" It was awesome! We chatted for about 2 miles, then fell into our race pace.

After about 2 miles, the sun came over the canyon, and hit my face and arms. What an amazing feeling. I had forgotten how good the sun feels on your skin. When I run races I don't do it for time or to win, but just to enjoy the feeling of running. I did not even start my stop watch, because I figured I would be so slow, but my pace was pretty good. I hit 3 miles, and was going pretty well. Then 4, 5, 6, and 7 miles. I had not even slowed down yet. I had great music, great scenery, and sun - life was good!

At mile 10.5, I came out of the canyon and on to the main highway. That is when the temperature hit me like a ton of bricks. In the canyon it was around 70-75, but on the main road it was over 80. I thought I was going to melt! I had not walked much until that point, but with the heat I had a to walk more.

By mile 12, I was close and I was surrounded by spectators. People had garden hoses and would spray runners down as they came by. I felt like a little kid again playing in the sprinklers. I rounded the corner, and could see the finish line in the distance. I knew my brother Lee had driven down from Salt Lake, so I was on the look out for him. Then, I saw Reva, Lee and his girlfriend searching the runners for me. I shouted out Lee's name, and waved. I had just about entered the shoot, so Lee ran along taking pictures. I crossed the finish line with a time of 2 hours and 39 minutes and a huge smile on my face. I was totally impressed with my time.

Eric called later to hear about how I did. He was surprised at how well I did. I was so determined to run that I did not even think about how the elevation, heat, and running outside would effect me. I realized that I am the happiest when I am running, and have missed it so much.

So, on Monday I boarded a plane and headed back to Anchorage. I was pretty sore, but happy and that's all that matters.......

Winter Fishing

Today, my friend Janna and I were invited to go ice fishing with our friend Fredrica. Fred grew up here, and was more than happy to take us out for the day. We all packed into the car, and drove on the frozen Kuskokwim River for more than 30 minutes, to the Johnson River. It was a nice Sunday afternoon. Not to windy, or cold. It was 10 below zero, with light winds. Fred kept trying to scare Janna by saying she did not know where she was going. I just laughed because I know the people here know the river like the back of their hand.

When we reached the Johnson, it was still early, so there were not many people out yet. Most of the holes have already been started, we just had to cut through a thin layer of ice since everything freezes almost instantly here in the winter. Fred handed Janna and I a large ice pick to start working on the holes. I work out, but let me tell you, picking at the ice is tough!

After the holes are ready, we bait our hooks. Ice fishing does not require any special equipment. The "rod" is a wooden stick or dowel about 2 feet long, with rope tied around it. The bait is black fish, which is a small fish about 3 times the size of a sardine. We had to tear a piece of the black fish, place it on the hook then drop the line into the hole. Oh yeah, there were some weights on the line to keep it in the water. Anyway, all you do is jig off the bottom of the river, and wait for a bite. Once you feel a bite, just pull! You will have a nice pike fish on the end of your line. Fred just laughed as Janna and I took pictures of each other with our first pike fish.

Janna and I were getting pretty good at this ice fishing, and after an hour or so, we had a nice pile. Since it was so cold, the pike would freeze almost instantly. It was pretty cool. Janna and I would get cold, so every hour we would hop back into the car to warm up. I have learned a lot from the Natives here, and the thing I have been most impressed with, is how much the share with one another. Fred had prepared a huge lunch for all of us. We had sandwiches and dried salmon strips. It was so tasty. Janna and I did not drink anything the entire time we were out there because there are of course no bathrooms on the river, and Janna and I were not about to "drop trou" in the freezing wind. Another thing I learned is that many elders do not hunt or fish, and rely on family and the community to take care of them. So, Fred would not let us leave until we had enough fish to share with her parents. And we still had to fillet them before she would give them to her parents. I was amazed.

After a full day fishing, it was back to Fred's house to fillet the fish. In the Native communities, women do all of the fish cutting. Men will not help with this task. So, we had 185 pike fish we had to get through. Since Janna and I were new to this, Fred showed us how to properly cut the fish so they can be hung outside to dry. You must first wipe all the slime off (that was pretty gross, I will admit), then cut down the back, remove the outsides without cutting the fish in half, then cut a hole near the tail for it to hang. Fred quickly cut through the fish, as we struggled. It is a ton of work. The last picture is what the fillet fish look like as they are hung outside to dry. They will stay outside to dry for a few weeks, until they are ready. Fred said we could come over for some dried pike in a few weeks. I'm excited to try it.

After a long day ice fishing, I was ready to go home and take a long shower. I wonder how long my hands will smell like fish......